Welcome back to Ubud

Back in town after so many years: Edward Viljoen of KSRO fame for those listening to Sonoma County radio. And he allows us this time to follow each of his steps by posting directly with his blackberry to his weblog. Despite these changes in his own way of travelling and documentating it he still enjoys, what he sees:
Ubud stays the same
Warm, friendly, authentic, silly, fun, mystical

Ubud is a vibrant village-town in the middle of Bali and is the cultural hot spot of the island. The not so distant history of back packing universe seeking tourist days still lingers among the wifi cafes and designer shops - you can still find a home-stay or an old style room with breakfast next door to a world class boutique hotel.

Sprawling mansions stand on the outskirts in the midst of rice fields, ducks and geese. Tour busses clog the narrow streets and adventure companies create excursions, elephant rides and treks.

But Ubud stays the same to me as it was the first time I met it. Warm, friendly, authentic, silly, fun, mystical.

It is our second base on this tour and it's central location makes it easy to get from Ubud to the temples on our itinerary or if we wanted......mountains, beaches, and major towns.

Tonight Balinese Dancing - porcelain faces, unmoving-unsmiling mouths with all the passion, fun, romance and drama in the eyes only. Darting eyes, just like the fingers and their mesmerising lateral dance movements. Spectacularly slow body movements in postures that look like a back ache trying to happen!

But first, Bebek Tutu - traditional smoked duck lunch. Read more!

Do you like Martinis?

Wolfgang Widmoser: Martinis inspired by Naughty Nuri's

If so, in Ubud there is only one choice to go to: Naughty Nuri's. Situated a bit out of town and opposite the famous Neka Museum it is owned and managed by Isnuri Suryatmi, with support from her husband Brian Aldinger from New York.

No, diners and drinkers at Naughty Nuri's demand far more than surface hype, coming in droves for what this smoky warung is famous for: Pork spareribs and a martini that has been called the best in Bali by some and the best in the world by others.

One sip of this knockout number and the mouth is alive with juniper berries, tang of lime and a mellowing in the bones. It's perhaps the flavor of the juniper berries that most amazes. When the berries hit the back palate the sensation is so full of zing that it is shockingly good.

As an added advantage to this incredible drink served for around 5 USD a shot is the chance to meet some of the famous and not so famous insiders living around here or coming in for a short stay. Wolfgang Widmoser, Ubud's leading painter has even made Nuri's to his marketing office, at least that is what he states is the reason for him hanging out there nearly every day. Above painting is made by him in exchange for a few more Martinis. Trisha Sertori, Contributor to the Jakarta Post with residence in Ubud has more on this trendy watering hole, which is the legitimate successor of the once famous Beggar's Bush from the Ubud of the eighties. But that is another story... Read more!

Ibu Murni: Entrepreneur from Ubud

Ubud has been described by some leading entrepreneurs of the world as a hotbed for growing these special speciies of people. Those two professors from Germany, Günter Faltin and Jürgen Zimmer, filled half of their pioneering book 'Reichtum von unten. Die neuen Chancen der Kleinen' with stories about entrepreneurs from Ubud.

John Braine from San Franzisco is especially fascinated also in this respect by the owner of one of Ubuds's early hangouts in the late seventies: Ibu Ni Wayan Murni

He reminds us to peserve a great piece about her published in the Jakarta Post as it is difficult to find elsewhere. Thanks also to Andrew Charles for composing this piece, which was originally published back in 2006 and supplementing what we published earlier about this great entrepreneur and traveller from Ubud. Thanks John for your reminder and hope to hear from you soon again.

Ni Wayan Murni is a revered character in Ubud as owner of Murni's Warung, Murni's Villas and many other enterprises, but it wasn't always like this.
Back in the 1950s, life was hard. Murni's parents split up and, at the age of six or seven, she was sent to live with an authoritarian aunt in Denpasar who made her get up every morning at 2 a.m. to prepare and sell food to the neighbors.

Difficult though it was for a very young girl, the hard work, discipline and selling skills were an important part of her education and set her in good stead for the future.

Murni's mother was an excellent businesswoman, but strict. "She was the only person to sell soft drinks in the market", Murni reminisced. "I remember one of the king of Ubud's servants used to cross the road to my mother's shop to buy drinks for the king's friends."

On the days the market was closed, Murni carried a load of salt from Ubud to Penestanan, a few kilometers away. She explained how her mother worked: "My mother insisted that I should not waste the journey back from Penestanan, so when I sold the salt, I had to find something to buy with the money and then I had to sell that when I got back to Ubud."

Even at that young age she was interested in textiles and sold batik. She said, "When I heard that there were tourists in town, I used to go to where they were and display my batik; I even sold a piece to president Sukarno, who often visited Ubud."

Tourism increased after the opening of the international airport and, from 1965 to 1974, Murni lived in Sanur where she opened several shops.

These were just outside the Tanjung Sari Hotel, where many people stayed, including Mick Jagger. It was at this point that Murni started becoming interested in antiques.

Her major break occurred in 1974 when, with the small amount of money she had been able to save, she bought some land in Ubud on the edge of a cliff overlooking trees and a river, where she opened Murni's Warung. "I was so lucky to get this property," she said. "It's the best piece of land in Ubud."

Initially, she sold only clothes and paintings but things started to improve when she realized that by selling Western food, she could attract more business, and was the first to do so in Ubud.

In 1978, electricity arrived so Murni was able to purchase a refrigerator and serve cold beers -- a landmark occasion!

Diners at the restaurant used to give her their favorite recipes and they often spent hours practicing together. Murni had to modify the recipes as the ingredients available were hardly ever the same as in her friends' countries; even when they were, the recipes came out differently.

For example, she couldn't get pecans anywhere so she changed the pecan pie recipe to cashews; it's still on the menu.

From a very small enterprise, Murni has moved on to become one of Ubud's most successful entrepreneurs and the restaurant is one of the most famous on the island.

Murni has incredible stamina and energy. As well as running the restaurant, which was catering to an increasing number of visitors, she opened two more shops and bought for all of them.

It was hard to keep up with the business. She was the first woman driver in Ubud and drove all over the island in search of stock. She said, "I'd buy as many textiles, antiques and good-quality handicrafts as I could and they'd be sold the next day. Every day was like that in the 1980s. It was incredible."

A visit to Murni's is a delightful experience. The food is excellent and inexpensive with a wide range of dishes, Western to Asian, and a number of real Balinese dishes not found elsewhere.

As Murni's Warung and Murni's shops flourished, she decided to get into the accommodation business. The first venture was Murni's Houses: residential accommodation for visitors in the center of the town.

As if all this were not enough, Murni got the travel bug. It is very rare for a Balinese to want to travel -- and a Balinese woman at that. Undeterred, she took off and traveled all over Europe, Egypt, Tanzania and Turkey. She still loves traveling and is frequently abroad, searching out rare treasures and testing new recipes for her restaurant.

These trips opened her eyes to luxury. About 12 years ago she acquired a stunning piece of land some 20 minutes drive north of Ubud and built Murni's Villas.

Many people in this country have achieved success after starting from humble beginnings and then become arrogant and egocentric.

Murni is one of the rare exceptions. She has five children and nine grandchildren and is happy with what she has achieved, but shows no signs of wanting to retire.

She is a traditionalist but also a modernist. She has embraced the digital age and runs one of the best websites in Bali. With her commitment and energy, there is little doubt that she will be in the forefront of Ubud society for many years to come.

Andrew Charles Read more!

Ubud and Beyond

Gisela Williams, a frequent contributor to American Express DEPARTURES introduces Ubud in the May issue of the magazine to those with the blue, green or golden plastic cards:

If South Bali attracts an Ibiza set, then Ubud is for a Santa Fe crowd: artists, intellectuals, and wealthy New Agers who come to Bali's central region for a cocktail of tropical design, spa treatments, and spiritual reinvigoration. "Ubud is about people, culture, and nature," explains Tjok Putra, a member of Ubud's royal family. "Our commitment is to maintain that balance while moving forward." To that effect, Putra has become a generous sponsor of local students, artists, and dancers; he also runs a hotel-management school that trains the staff at his three hotels. After lunch at the Hotel Tjampuhan, a royal-family holding since 1944, Putra escorted us to the site of his latest project, the Royal Pita Maha. Ubud's largest resort, it will open half its 92 villas this month; the rest will be finished by the end of the year. Unlike its neighbors—such as the Four Seasons Sayan and Amandari, which offer modern takes on local architecture—Pita Maha is purely Balinese. Traditional stone murals, sculptures of Hindu gods, and paintings of silk-wrapped dancers decorate the hotel, whose construction was delayed because of the dearth of tourists after the bombing. "The traffic light for Bali was yellow," he says. "Now it's green."

Besides Ubud's new resorts (which will soon include Orient-Express's forthcoming Hanging Gardens), what draws many to this region is the Balinese experience on a smaller, more personal scale. Which is why interior designer Linda Garland recently began taking guests at her estate, Panchoran, a 25-acre ecosystem of bamboo, recycled teak, lacy hammocks, and waterfalls, which she has spent 30 years perfecting. "Ubud is more about health; it's an artistic and intellectual center," she says. "[The club] Exiles on a Saturday night is the closest one gets to a rave up here."

As laid-back as Ubud may be, its restaurant scene has nonetheless been recharged. Chris Salans, chef of the French-Asian restaurant Mozaic, says that "we were pretty empty for a few months" after the bombing. Today the place is booked weeks in advance. Even the old standbys have caught a second wind. A dozen years ago I used to drink juice on batik pillows at Ary's Warung; now I'm sipping a ginger martini on a goat-hide stool at the bar. "Just two years ago we thought everyone would have to close down," says owner Agung Odeck. This winter he'll open Betel Nut, an Asian-style bistro down the road.

CHECKING IN

Begawan Giri Estate Acquired not long ago by Christina Ong, this stunning resort set among jungle gardens on top of a river gorge will add a spa building and spa villas by fall. Rates, $495-$4,400. At Banjar Begawan; 62-361/978-888; www.begawan.com.

The Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah Once the estate of Indonesian architect Hendra Hadiprana, this new hotel is the sister property of The Legian in Seminyak. (Guests traveling between the two are accompanied by a personal butler.) With its lily ponds, rare birds, and spectacular vistas of rice fields, the Chedi provides an authentic—if eccentric—experience. Pool Villa 6 has the best views. Rates, $310-$830. At Jalan Goa Gajah, Tengkulaka Kaja; 62-361/730-622.

Panchoran After living here for 30 years, Linda Garland just opened her lush, ecofriendly estate to adventurous guests. There are only two villas, the Waterfall and River houses. Rates, $350-$650. At Nyuh Kuning village; 62-361/974-028; www.lindagarland.com.

Royal Pita Maha The traditional Balinese resort owned and designed by the Ubud royal family is the largest in the area, with 92 villas on some 30 acres along the Ayung River. Rates, $400-$1,500. At Kedewatan; 62-361/980-022; www.royalpitamaha-bali.com.

Uma Ubud Christina Ong's newest retreat on the island is a bit of Seminyak glamour brought north. The rooms are stylish but small, at least by Bali's standards; try the more expansive Pool Suites. Rates, $205-$385. At Jalan Raya Sanggingan; 62-361/972-448; www.uma.como.bz.

Villa Kirana The area's most stylish private rental, designed by Made Wijaya, is a colorful five-bedroom compound that has glorious views, an infinity pool, and an impressive collection of Southeast Asian antiques and modern art. Jeweler John Hardy lives a few blocks away. Rates, $750-$1,250. Contact Bali Luxury Villa; 62-361/754-344; www.villakiranabali.com.

HOT TABLES

Ary's Warung The sleek decor of the Ubud classic has been recently modernized with an Indonesian-fusion menu. Dinner, $40. At Jalan Raya Ubud; 62-361/975-053; www.dekco.com.

Ibu Oka This street-food stall, a well-kept secret among Balinese chefs, serves the best spicy suckling pig. Lunch, $2. At Jalan Suweta, Ubud.

Lamak This two-story, thatched-roof restaurant wrapped around a courtyard bar has become an expat favorite for its good wine list and funky but exclusive atmosphere (the huge art-filled bathrooms feel like VIP lounges). Dinner, $45. At Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud; 62-361/974-668; www.lamakbali.com.

Mozaic Chris Salans, who studied with Thomas Keller in Napa, delights his following with dishes like crispy seared foie gras with apples, guava, Spanish saffron, and spicy rujak sauce. Reserve at least a week ahead and ask for a table in the torch-lit garden. Dinner, $75. At Jalan Raya Sanggingan; 62-361/975-768.

Warung Enak Made Wijaya's latest project brings food from all over the Indonesian archipelago. Try the pangek sapi from Sumatra, a sweet basily beef dish served over rice and crunchy winged beans, or the asinan Jakarta, a mix of vegetables and tofu in a nest of fried egg noodles. Dinner, $35. At Jalan Raya Pengosekan; 62-361/972-911.

TO BRING BACK

Gaya This contemporary art center was founded by a collective of regional artists. It exhibits Indonesian crafts, modern furniture, painting, sculpture, and ceramics. At Jalan Raya Sayan, Ubud; 62-361/979-252; www.gayafusion.com.

John Hardy Bali's preeminent jeweler shows his collection by appointment only in a stunning showroom in Mambal. At Jalan Baturning; www.johnbali.com.

Treasures The first stop for jewelry, both traditional and modern, carries a variety of gorgeous baubles fashioned by some of the island's most celebrated designers. Among them are Tricia Kim and Carolyn Tyler. At Jalan Raya Ubud; 62-361/976-697; www.dekco.com.

INSIDER TIPS

MASTER MASSEUR When he's not traveling the world tending to clients, Ketut Arsana works his magic at Ubud Bodyworks. Book way in advance. Massage, $45. At 25 Jalan Hanoman; 62-361/975-720; www.ubudbodyworkscentre.com.

TRANCE DANCE Every new and full moon at 7 p.m., the ARMA museum puts on a concert of Kecak dance, a hypnotic performance involving scores of men making music with only their voices. At Jalan Pengosekan, Ubud; 62-361/976-659.

ART CONNECTIONS The Bali Purnati Center for the Arts, which counts theatrical designer Robert Wilson as a collaborator, is the best source of information about Indonesian art. At Jalan Gunung Abang, Batuan; 62-361/294-590; www.balipurnati.com.

MOUNTAIN BIKING Bali Sobek rents bikes and hires out guides for jungle and village excursions. Rate, $55 a day; www.balisobek.com.

COOK'S TOUR Every Tuesday and Wednesday, local restaurateur and author Janet De Neefe conducts a tour of the Ubud food market, followed by a cooking lesson on Balinese classics like fern salad and mie goreng (fried noodles). Rate, $20 per person. At the Honeymoon Guesthouse, Jalan Bisma; 62-361/973-282; www.casalunabali.com. Read more!

Living Legend Ibu Murnis

Within Ubud living quite a few legends. One of them is known to travelers as Ibu Murni. Whether you are Amy Tan, Alice Walker, Mick Jagger, a businessperson, newlywed or traveler, Murni shares all of her time, energy and friendship. People from all over the world visit Bali specifically to meet with Ibu Murni, dine in her restaurants, discover Balinese treasures in her shops, and live luxuriously in her villas.





Just 15 minutes outside Ubud, between mist-cloaked mountains and ancient emerald rice terraces, reside Murni in her new . Named after the fireflies that magically light up the Balinese night, these villas are said to have one of the best views in all of Bali. Walking through the 6.5 tropical landscaped acres of the Kunang-Kunang villas, it becomes obvious that Murni has attended to every last detail— each stepping stone has been impressed with floral and tree leaf patters, to the 33 handpicked Buddha statues inhabiting the property, to the 50-foot crystal salt swimming pool hidden among lush foliage. Read more!